Where to Eat, Stay, and Drink on a Northern Italian Road Trip

Soaring alpine peaks, serene canals, stunning art and architecture of antiquity. Northern Italy is the proud parent of some of the most wondrous landscapes on Earth. Whenever I’m lucky enough to explore this region, though, it is all but a beautiful backdrop for unforgettable food and drink. My favorite cuisine, cocktails, and wine all come from here: the tortellini of Modena, the cicchetti of Venice, the prototypical Florentine Negroni, and Brunello di Montalcino. 

I had encountered it all separately during various trips to the country. Each experience was so individually enshrined within my memory that it felt improbable that all these provinces were essentially neighbors across a relatively small swath of land. It was an area I had repeatedly been advised could be effortlessly traversed within several days. So last autumn, I endeavored to put that prescription to the test through a carefully planned road trip. I was delighted with the results and implore any adventurous gourmand to experiment similarly. If you feel inclined to eat and drink your way through the scenery, here’s an easy template to follow.

Stop one: Venice

Bookend the journey by flying into Venice Marco Polo Airport and securing a stay at the new Nolinski Venezia Hotel in the heart of the City of Canals. The five-star property sits just a short stroll from Piazza San Marco, yet it feels worlds away from the frenzied din of any tourist hub. Acclimate to its serenity by bellying up to the Library Bar, tucked off to the corner of the third-floor lobby. The cozy space is bound by red velvet banquettes — comfortable perches from which to sip martinis made with local Italian gins or smoky Manhattans prepared with top-shelf bourbon. And, living up to its name, the watering hole holds some 4000 books along its crowded shelves. 

At meal time, Il Caffè plates a parade of Northern Italian specialties, served adjacent to the hotel’s inner courtyard sanctum. Staples of the menu include outsized portions of Milanese veal chop, house-made linguini with lobster, and pizzetta topped with basil and heaping mounds of burrata. 

There’s enough here that you’ll need to navigate it over several days worth of dinners. Especially come spring, when Two-Michelin-starred chef Philip Chronopoulos opens the hotly anticipated Palais Royal on site. So allocate enough time to explore off-property, too, of course. For cicchetti, check out Enoteca Schiavi. The unassuming wine shop, south of Ponte dell’Accademia, is an enduring destination for locals. When it’s time for something sweet, beeline over to Suso — an artisanal gelateria under the shadow of Rialto Bridge. 

Once you’ve left ample time for digestion, you’ll want to return to the hotel to enjoy its sublime rooftop pool. More like a massive indoor hot tub, it features gold-leafed tiling and a view overlooking some of the city's most iconic attractions. Rooms here start at around $600 per night. And for a nominal fee, they’ll provide private transfer from and back to the airport via water taxi. Take them up on it. It’s worth it. 

At the airport, you can find plenty of rental cars for as little as $30 per day. Try securing a hybrid vehicle, as gas prices will be the most significant associated cost. Two caveats before you hit the road: stick-shift is still the norm here, so if you only drive automatic, make sure to book well ahead of time — supply might be scarce. One thing that there’s no shortage of, however, is aggressive drivers on Italian highways. They will come up on you fast and fierce. To avoid them, stay in the rightmost lane at all times. 

Stop two: Verona 

After leaving Venice, I headed west toward E70 for about an hour before making my first pit stop outside Verona. I came to explore the Pasqua Winery tasting room, where I could score some fantastic deals on big and fruity examples of Amarone, the region's signature wine. But I soon learned that there was a lot more going on in this operation. Namely, some irreverent yet well-structured whites relying heavily on garganega and pinot bianco grapes. For €50 (about $55), I was able to tour the winemaking process and blend my own customized bottle.

Stop three: Modena 

From Verona, I veered south on E45 to the automotive mecca of Modena. The historic city is home to Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati … and Massimo Bottura. Despite my love of exotic sports cars, the three Michelin-star chef excited me most about this particular pilgrimage. Landing a table at his legendary Osteria Francescana is a herculean task. I opted for a less stressful alternative: lining up an overnight at Casa Maria Luigia, the charming bed and breakfast he opened up with his wife, Lara Gilmore, along the outskirts of the city, back in 2019. 

Since then, the property has slowly and mindfully expanded beyond its primary footprint within the 12-room confines of a 250-year-old farmhouse. It now includes a working acetaia, where you can tour over a thousand barrels of balsamic patiently taking shape. In addition to tasting the classical expressions for which the region is singularly renowned, I sampled some of the chef's playful experimentations, including a curiously piney variant flavored using juniper wood. 

Earlier this autumn, Casa Maria Luigia added another adjoining dining option, Al Gatto Verde, where talented tastemaker — and Bottura disciple — chef Jessica Rosval focuses on wood-fired fare. But the original venue here is Francescana, an offshoot of the beloved Osteria that showcases some of the greatest hits from throughout its nearly 30-year history. The $500 tasting menu is carefully paired against endless pours of under-heralded viticultural treasures. There’s also plenty of surprises coming out of the open kitchen, which may or may not include a dessert portion of tortellini. 

During my Saturday evening experience, there was no greater surprise than chef Bottura in the flesh, descending upon the dining room to plate one of his most famous creations: “Beautiful, Psychedelic Spin-painted Veal, Not Flame Grilled.” It turns out that you have a solid chance of spotting him if you arrive on that particular night of the week. 

But no matter when you stay at Casa Maria Luigia, you’re guaranteed a wholly boutique experience for around €800 (about $876) per night. It includes access to a 24/7 kitchen stocked with snacks—and aperitivo; a listening room lined with the chef’s thousand-strong collection of vinyl, and a gym, which doubles as a garage for his vintage sports cars. His penchant for such is chronicled in a new book he co-authored with his wife called Slow Food, Fast Cars. 

Stop four: Florence

After exiting greater Modena, I went south on A1, bypassing Bologna on my way to Florence. Transitioning from Emilia-Romagna into Tuscany, the drive revealed an increasingly undulating terrain as I eventually descended into the Arno river valley. 

The Tuscan capital is brimming with sensual delights. But I had only one such pleasure in mind: checking into the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze. The enchanting property, repurposed from a 15th Century palace, is among my favorite places to stay on earth. And so anytime I’m in the city, I intend to spend as much time within its hallowed halls as schedule allows. It is never enough. 

The aptly named Atrium Bar is the hotel's signature space for liquid libation. Classically appointed, it sits under a lofty glass skylight — affording a most stately retreat. Negronis are always front of mind here. This is the very city in which the cocktail was invented, and the bar reserves a trolly, especially for their assembly. I was delighted to learn that the mixologists had just crafted a new menu, highlighting a half dozen or so elegant variations on the classic. 

They also offer a refreshingly extensive food menu at Atrium. I took advantage of this fact by pairing my Vintage Negroni with truffle-dusted ravioli. The real pro move, however, is to reserve a table at Il Palagio, the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, helmed by chef Paolo Lavezzini. His menu addresses old Tuscan standbys with a modern sensibility. In one compelling example, succulent, locally sourced lamb is plated with an application of sheep’s milk ricotta and studded with bee pollen. 

After dinner, I retreated to my second-floor room. With its impossibly high ceilings and Medici-inspired decor, I didn’t just feel like I was staying in a palace. I was staying in a palace.

Stop five: Barone Ricasoli

My fourth day on the road was to be my last before returning to Venice. So, I wanted to go out strong. For that, I entrusted Barone Ricasoli, Italy’s oldest wine estate. To get here from Florence, you pass through ancient hillside villages that would be worth your time even if you didn’t have a specific destination in mind. But good grief, is it ever a worthy destination. At the center of 600 acres of pristinely rowed vineyards is Brolio castle. I came in time for the morning tour. It’s over two hours, costs €40 (about $44), and includes a tasting of several of the winery’s prototypical Chianti Classicos and an exploration of the castle. It’s offered daily from April through December. 

In the early afternoon, I continued along the narrower rustic roads of Tuscany, eventually winding my way through the timeworn, limestone-tinted city of Arezzo for an espresso break. The wheels kept rolling north on E45 toward the Adriatic coast and Ravenna — the seaside village most famous for its medieval-era Basilicas. Today, its best dining destination exists just steps away from one of those ancient edifices. Osteria del Tempo Perso is a glistening gem of modern Italian cuisine. And it's got the Michelin star to prove it. I savored a house-made ravioli stuffed with seabream and washed it down with a buoyant Lambrusco. 

It’s merely a two-hour drive from here, tracing the coastline north along SS309, back to Venice Marco Polo Airport. By the time you return the rental car, you will have logged 12 total hours behind the wheel and 510 miles on the odometer. All of it packed pleasantly into four days that will last you for a lifetime.